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field glass's
Posted by Byron_Lamb on May 29 2005
I agree that primarily personal preference & how certain glasses "fit" you, when your making an apples-to-apples comparision to different high-end glass. In other words the ergonomic's of different optic's mfg. can make a hude difference.
Keep in mind that the ocular lens, the one closest to your eye, is all about the same diameter on most glasses, which is about 32mm.
The objective lens, the end farthest from your eyes, primarily does two things; to a large degree it determines how much light the optic's gather, and secondly it has a major factor in your field of view (FOV).
Traditionally most binoculars were made with the "porro prism" style of reflectors/mirror. These are the type that have an obvious offset when you're looking at them.
Several years ago some of the European bino's hit the Amercian market and they were/are almost exclusively made with the "roof prism" style of mirror/reflector.
Without getting into the details about the inner working's of how the porro & roof prism bino's transfer the image, it is commonly accepted that the "roof" prism type are superior.
Also it is interesting to note that most high-end glass is the same. In other words all the glass used in different brands starts life the same way. What makes different optic's different, is the coating's the different companies use.
I'm sure you're the only one who can directly answer your question about which power is best. Simiply stated there are way to many varibles.
That said, I use binocualars of 10x magnification, with an objective lens of 42mm, 10 X 42, for nearly all different types of Alaska hunting. I say nearly because I use 8 x 32 for Sheep hunting, everything else I use the 10 x 42.
Nearly everyone that see's my "bino sock", that isn't already familar with them, ask me about it. I carry my 10 x 42's in a niffty little sack called a "bino sock". You can buy these at many sporting goods stores. Its a little bag that you carry the bino's in around you're chest. You still use the neck strap from the bino's, plus the bino sock has an adjustable, stretchy, strap that goes around your chest. The bino sock does several things; 1st it keep the binoculars from beating against your chest, 2nd it helps keep your bino's dry and clean and eliminates the need for objective lens covers, 3rd...and most importantly for me, it takes most of the weight off your neck but doesn't restrict binoular use, or speed at which you can draw them to take a quick look at something.
I've used different types of harness system's for my binoculars, the bino sock seems the best for what I do.
Additionally I carry a small piece of "shammy" with me. A shammy, just like you'd dry your car with to keep from getting water spots. The nice thing about the shammy is that it doesn't scratch your lens', plus when it gets wet you just wring it out and keep using it. Paper towels and kleenex is about the harshest thing you can use on good, high-end glass.
In my opinion, for most Alaska hunting, the 8 powers are NOT enough, the 30mm & 50mm objective lens each have problems also. I think a nice "balance" is the 10 x 42's.
For what its worth, some people are better at glassing than others. Ever notice when 2-4 people are together 1 person consistently spots more game than the others? Being good w/ your glasses don't just happen, it takes practice & patience. Having good glasses to use can sure help w/ this process.....good luck!
good Hunting..>Byron Lamb
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